Istanbul City GuideHeading to Istanbul and want to know where to eat, drink, shop? What to see and do? The best cafes and sights off the main tourist track? See below for my recommendations, based on my year-long experience stomping around what may be the greatest city in the world. We live in the days of google maps and travel apps, so this guide should be used in conjunction with one of those, and therefore the listings do not include addresses. I do, however, indicate the neighborhood for each entry, and I've included links to websites where I can (click on the red name of the attraction/venue) At the very bottom I’ve grouped some things together in a "day itineraries" section.
Sights (obvious - all in Sultanahmet)
1. Blue Mosque (simply beautiful)
2. Topkapi Palace (give yourself a couple of hours to see everything. The harem is worth the extra $$!)
3. Aya Sophia/ Hagia Sophia (give yourself a couple of hours to see everything)
Sights (less obvious)
4. Galata Tower (Galata) - Best view of the city! Check closing time and if possible go for sunset!)
5. Basilica Cistern (Sultanahmet) - Underground cistern and has crazy medusa head pillars.
6. Ortakoy Mosque (Ortakoy) - Just a really beautiful, special mosque. It's been going through some restoration and had some scaffolding when I was last there. If you walk to the waterfront square in Ortakoy there is a great spot for a photo next to the Bosphorus with a view of the mosque in the background.
Sights (off the beaten path)
7. Kariye Muzesi/ Church of St. Savoir in Chora (Fatih/Eyup) - A byzantine church that survived being turned into a mosque. I’m not usually that into stuff like this but it has incredibly well preserved frescoes and an undeniably spiritual feeling when you’re inside. Hard to get to but worth it!
8. Fatih Mosque - Off in Fatih, one of the most conservative neighborhoods in the city, is this huge mosque that’s full of locals. A great authentic experience.
9. Rumeli Hisari Castle ruins (Rumeli Hisari/Sariyer) - Generally somewhat deserted (a good thing!) and sort of crumbling (in a good way!) You can climb up the steps for a great view of the Bosphorus.
Turkish Breakfast
What is a Turkish Breakfast, you ask? Click here to find out.
10. Cafe Nar - (Rumeli Hisari) - Beautiful Bosphorus shore location - sit outside! It's a little far north, but if you combine it with a trip to Rumeli Hisari and maybe a stroll along the shore, you can make a 1/2 day of it. I recommend getting one big Tabagi plate to share plus an egg dish - menemen or yumurta - also to share. Easily feeds three people.
11. Smyrna Cafe (Cihangir) - Cozy and great for a rainy day. Has a very cool bohemian/eclectic vibe. Also good for other meals, a drink, coffee etc.
12.Van Kahvalti Evi (Cihangir) - Casual and basic decor but great Kahvalti and popular with everyone - locals, expats, tourists.
Lunch Spots*
13. Takanik Balik (Arnavutkoy) - amazing, fresh fish, eggplant salad and corn bread. Super friendly staff.
14. Tikinti (Besiktas) - They call their specialty the "Portugese chicken," but it’s actually not a Portugese restaurant! The portion is huge: two chicken cutlets smothered in a flavorful egg/vegetable sauce. It sounds weird, and it is, but sooo good.
15. Ciya Sofrasi Lokanti (Kadikoy) - There are three restaurants on the same street with this name; one is a kebab place, another a pide place I think, and the third one is a lokanti, which is semi-buffet style Turkish home cooking, and this is the one to go to! If you see a guy inside stirring stuff in a bunch of pots, that’s the place.
16. Avsarbey Bursa Iskender Kebapcisi - (Besiktas) - they have some of the best homemade ayran (a yogurt drink) and kunefe (pastry and cheese dessert cooked in a pot) in all of Istanbul, if you ask me. The Iskender kebab and other kebabs are awesome!! You can get them all over the city but they’re especially good here. Popular with locals, almost no tourists. Nice view of the Bosphorus from the upper terrace - ask to be seated up there.
Dinner Spots*
17. Klemuri - (Taksim/Istiklal) Casual, cute, cozy; this place specializes in food from the Black Sea region. I highly recommend their two specialties - the Muhlama (appetizer sort of like fondue, to share) and the Banana Chicken (yes, really!) - but everything I had there was great.
18. Damak Tadi Lokantasi - (Taksim/Istiklal) lokantis are found everyone in Turkey. It's a very casual cafeteria-style restaurant with Turish comfort food - things like stuffed peppers, meat stews, meat and potato souffles and lots more. A lokanti meal is a cheap meal - you can stuff yourself silly for under about 7 bucks! Damak Tadi is a Kurdish owned and run place that my teacher friends and I grew attached to, despite it being a total hole in the wall, but any lokantis that have a line of Turks will be good. I think Damak Tadi is on Atif Yilmaz Cd, off of Istiklal running north.
19. Sofyali 9 - (Asmali Mescit) Sofyali 9 is one of many meyhane in Istanbul, a type of restaurant where you'll have a really awesome, authentic and entertaining dinner experience. The typical thing to do is order a bottle of Raki, which is strong, licorice flavored liquor that you put over ice and mix with water (50/50 is good). The waiter will bring over a tray of meze (appetizers) and you can point and choose what you want. Then you typically order a fish which comes whole and only lightly seasoned. The best and liveliest mehane can be found on Nevizade Sokak (in Taksim, near Istiklal) and around Asmali Mescit Sokak, in Tunel. Cumhurriet Meyhane is a good one near Nevizade.
*Dinner spots and lunch spots are pretty interchangeable
Coffee/Tea/Daytime Drink Places
20. French Street (Cukurcuma) - A street, hence the name, not a venue. Its official name is Cezayir Sokak, but everyone calls it "French Street." The entrance point is hard to miss, marked by giant pink flower statues and lights. You walk down steps, on either side of which there are adorable cafes embellished with pastel colored furnishings. The first place on the right is owned by a very young Turkish guy named Emrah, and his mom does all the cooking. I recommend stopping here for Cay (tea) or espresso or a glass of wine on a nice day (though like everywhere else, there are heat lamps for more wintry weather); the food is passable.
21. Pierre Loti Cafe (Fatih) - Because this landmark cafe is off the typical tourist track and a bit hard to get you’ll probably see more locals than tourists, and it’s definitely worth the trip. Take the cable car up from the edge of the Golden Horn in Eyyup to arrive at a cafe named for the famous french soldier and author who went by the name Pierre Loti. His best book is Aziyade, which you can buy in the small gift store. The views and vantage point of the city are unique and beautiful. Not a place to eat, but a great spot to have coffee or tea. I advise walking back down through the breathtakingly, hauntingly beautiful cemetery that sits below the cafe on a hill (go during daylight hours).
22. Assk Cafe (Kurucesme) - Very upscale and European, this place is sort of hidden down a path next to a fancy grocery store in Kurucesme, near Arnavutkoy. Great as a place to rest your calves when you're taking a long stroll down the Bosphorus between Arnavutkoy and Ortakoy. The cafe literally sits on the water and is great for coffee, tea, or sunset cocktails. Casual but pricey (Note: the pics on their site don't do the place justice!)
23. White Mill Cafe (Cihangir) - The back garden area is the place to sit, so go on a nice day. There are tables on a sandy pit, a square wooden bar in the middle, beautiful leafy trees, and there's even a porch swing back there! They even have outdoor electrical outlets and allow laptops during the day. Great place for afternoon hanging out or early evening drinks.
24. Mangerie (Bebek) - You have to find a somewhat hidden entrance on Bebek’s main drag, and walk up a few flights of stairs. Once upstairs find a spot on the balcony for great Bosphorus views. The atmosphere is so lovely...as is the hot chocolate. Mangerie is famous for their Turkish Breakfast, and for lunchtime I recommend the substantially portioned (and pricey) steak salad.
Casual Bars
25. Badehane (Tunel/Asmalimescit) - One of my favorite bars - small and friendly with a lot of tables - and it's located in Asmalimescit, which is a nightlife hub and also really easy to get to from Taksim square, Cihangir and Galata (it';s smushed between all three!) They have live Gypsy music every Wednesday and other types of music other nights. It's surrounded but a lot of other great bars!
26. Papillon (Taksim) - this place is baudy loud but good fun, expecially for late-night. There are several floors and the place is in an old building and slants a bit. If you go to the top floor back room there's a nice balcony! It's listed here under casual because of dress/diveyness, but it's definitely a little more clubby than a chill pub or Badehane. It's a popular place with English teachers so you'd likely run into some grungy expats there.
27. Nevizade Sokak bars (Taksim) - Nevizade is one of Istanbul's most energetic and condensed nightlife "streets." Running parallel to Istiklal Caddesi, it is best reached by walking down the Balik Pazar (what we expats would call "Fish Street") and hooking a right after a bunch of fish stalls. You can't miss it. There are multi-level, casual pubs and a lot of mehane. It's lively every night of the week, and a great place for outdoor drinking and people watching at any hour of the day. It's the place where true blue middle class Istanbullus head out for a night of drinks with friends.
28. Cafe Firuz (Cihangir/Firuzaga) - I put it under Casual Drinks, but this place is good for everything - Turkish Kahvalti, lunch, dinner, cay, a glass of wine. The rich boheme of Cihangir like to hang here. It's a great place to witness the east-meets-west of Istanbul, because it's a cafe serving liquor that's attached to a camii (mosque). People who've been in the 'bul a while don't even blink.
29. Haymatlos - Hard to find, but once you do you will probably park here for a few drinks. I love the L-shaped set-up...one area with a stage and a mix of live music - folk, gypsy, traditional Turkish, etc - and another area full of big comfy booths to just sit and chill. A popular place with both Turks and expats; young, boisterous crowd.
Fancy Drink Places
30. Lebi Der-ya (Tunel) - This is the place I would take friends for a drink on their first night in Istanbul. The views of the twinkling lights on the hills of Taksim/Cihangit are incredible, and the atmosphere is cool and modern/Euro. Romantic too. Note: there is another location in the Richmond Hotel on Istiklal but I like the one further down in Tunel a lot better.
31. 5.Kat (Cihangir) - The inside has a boudoir feel, and the upstairs roof (closed in winter) is magical. A great place for a drink either day or night - both times offer amazing Bosphorus/city views and you can see the bridge changing colors at night! They also have decent food. The name means 5th Floor, and it's pronounced "beshinjuh kot." You enter and take the elevator up to the 5th floor. It's a little hidden, with a small purple sign with an angel on it.
32. Lucca (Bebek) Not sure if it's still this way - trendy places always lose their luster after a while, and a new hot spot is anointed - but while I was living in Istanbul this was a place to see, be seen, and spot celebs (Turkish ones, of course). On New Year's Eve my friends and I walked right up to the bouncer and were let in, I guess because we were three girls and Americans, but the door can be tough I've been told. A fun place to start the night with a bottle of bubbly.
Old vs. New
As you have probably heard and read in countless guide books, Istanbul sits on a precipice - of space (since geographically it strattles the border of Europe and Asia) and of time, with a furious mix of what is traditional and what is modern. This second contradiction is fairly obvious and I think it's important to experience both while on a visit to the city. I've provided eating and drinking recommendations for both old and new in the cateogories above (and realized that casual drinks and lunch tend to be part of the Old, with dinner and fancy drinks part of the New). The historical sites are obviously all part of the Old. To help your planning, to ensure you get a good cross-section, here is a list of the restaurants and bars by number, broken down as best I could:
Traditional
12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 25, 26, 27,
Modern
10, 11, 17, 20, 22, 23, 24, 28, 29, 30, 31
Experiences
Grand Bazaar - Plan to spend at least a couple of hours - including breaks for tea or snacks, and to rest your feet - wandering the Kapali Carsi, as it's known in Turkish.
Hamam - Going to a Turkish bath is an authentic experience that can be really awesome. This is one of the rare times I will suggest going to to a "touristy" place, because I've heard reports of more "local" hamams being sketchy and not so clean. I took all three groups of lady friends who visited me to Cemberlitas Hamami, which is near the Grand Bazaar. It is one of two that are equally famous and old, the other being Cagaloglu Hamami. I liked Cemberlitas so much that I never tried Cagaloglu, so I can't vouch for it, but I've heard they're very similar. Cemberlitas is in an old stone dome with star cutouts in the top, and the light shines down on you as you lie on a hot stone bed waiting to be washed. It feels very otherworldly. Tip: I advise bringing a bikini bottom, deodorant and makeup to reapply if you have plans afterwards. I also recommend getting the massage, which is an add-on to the basic wash and shampoo. It's not for the modest - you will need to feel comfortable being half naked in an historic dome with other women, and cool with flabby Turkish ladies scrubbing you all over with a loofah, in order to really enjoy the experience. You don't need to book ahead, and the cost is around $75 for everything, including the massage.
Ferry from Ortakoy - there is a 1-hour ferry ride that leaves from a dock in Ortakoy and goes up to Rumelihisari and back (this is different from the commuter ferries that shuttle people from one side of the strait to the other). It's a fun way to see all the beautiful old yali along the shoreline, and to see some of the waterside nightclubs from the other side. The best time to go is just before sunset, so you can see everything in the light and in the dark, when the colors of the Bosphorus bridge change color. They usually allow you to bring beer aboard. 10TL per ticket.
Walking along the Bosphorus - First, let me plug a travel piece I wrote for GALO magazine: Eating my Way Down the Bosphorus Shore. On a nice day, walking from Rumelihisari, or even further north, all the way down to Ortakoy (2-3 miles) is fun and a great way to soak in some of the intricacies and eccentricities of life in Istanbul. If it's rainy or cold, it's fairly easy to grab a taxi headed south. You can make a full day of it by combining some of my food/drink recs and activities. See below for the itinerary.
Foods You Must Try While in Istanbul
Baklava - You can find great baklava all over Istanbul and all over Turkey, but the most famous and best is from Karakoy Gulluoglu. I personally love the desserts at an old-school place on Istanbul whose name I can't remember. But if you're walking down Istiklal from Taksim square, it'll be on your left before Galatasaray High School, and it's across from a new, modern shopping mall. The baklava and kunefe are both sublime.
Balik/Ekmek - the most authentic (and cheap!) place to get a fish sandwich - balik ekmek literally means "fish bread" - is in Eminonu from a bobbing boat at the shore of the Golden Horn. It's a mix of tourists and real Turks on their lunch breaks grabbing food. A happy mix!
Kumpir - This is a giant baked potato stuffed/topped with your choice of items including but not limited to butter, cheese, yogurt, purple yogurt, olives, pickles, ham chunks, hot dog pieces, chives, hot sauce, peppers, onions, etc.
Doner - Street meat! The best stands for this are in Taksim Square, on the left as you enter Istiklal Caddesi. Available all over the city and most places are pretty decent, but I'd advise against getting it too early in the day when it might not be fully cooked.
Borek- It's generally eaten for breakfast but is good as a hearty snack, too. Borek is a doughy pastry and can be filled with things like cheese, ground meat, or spinach. My favorite for breakfast is su borek.
Best Neighborhoods for Wandering and Shopping
Cihangir - Start on Siraselvilar at Taksim sq and walk down the hill. Hook a left when you get to "Cihangir square" at Yeni Yuva Sokak and go left. The small intertwining streets have some great (but expensive) shopping, restaurants and peekaboo views of the Bosphorus.
Cukurcuma - Just to the west of Cihangir is a neighborhood filled with antique and vintage shops and small mom & pop restaurants. I hear Orhan Pamuk's Museum of Innocence is finally open here, too. I highly recommend reading the book before you visit Istanbul. There is a small shop on Faik Pasa Cd owned by this very sweet man who will pour you tea as you look over bins full of junky jewelry and trinkets from Turkmenistan. The strange sculptures/necklaces made from silver forks that are hanging on the walls were made by his mother. He once gave me a rug for free.
Ortakoy - The streets along and perpendicular to the water in Ortakoy are some of the most atmospheric. Plan to eat a kumpir on a bench near the shoreline and then spend time walking around and looking at jewelry in the shops and outdoor stalls. There is a bigger shop that sells beautiful ceramics and glassware, the entrance is close to Ciragan Caddesi (the main road you'll take via bus or taxi to arrive in Ortakoy).
Arnavutkoy - Up the Bosphorus on the European side, between Ortakoy and Bebek, Arnavutkoy is small but charming - it has a fishing village feel with good reason: it was originally outside the city center, before the urban sprawl took hold, and its name means "Albanian Village." It feels local, authentic, yet upscale. The houses behind the main drag sit on a steep slope (like everything else in this city!) and are worth walking around. Work up an appetite for a great fresh fish lunch at Takanik Balik (#13, above).
Galata - The uneven, winding streets around the Galata Tower are full of eclectic shops and lesser-known cafes and restaurants.
Kadikoy - Once you get away from the bustle of the ferry docks in Kadikoy, make your way to Tellâlzade sokak, where a bunch of junky antique shops sit next to one another, their wares spilling out onto the pedestrian-only street. My favorite things to look at are the old gramophones. Some of the shops are literally waist-high with junk. A fun place to poke around and take pictures. The head south on Moda Caddesi, which will lead you down to the water and through the mini neighborhood of Moda, Kadikoy's hippest enclave.
Key words
Water - su (rhymes with "too")
Bathroom - tuvalet (if you just say "toilet," everyone knows what you mean)
Please - lutfen ( "lootfen")
Thanks - Tesekkurler ("te-shek-yoo-lar")
No/none (if you don't want something) - yok (like "yolk")
Very/a lot - cok ("choke")
Little/a little - az/biraz ("oz" or "beer-oz")
Maybe - belki
Later (also means after) - sonra
How are you? - Nasilsin?
Cheers! (when clinking glasses) - Serefe! ("share-a-fay")
Goodnight - iyi Aksamlar ("ee-yee ock-shom-lar")
Pronunciation
ç - sounds like "ch"
ş - sounds like "sh"
c - sounds like j in English
i - sounds like "eeee"
ı (the i without the dot) - sounds like "uh"
* the great thing about Turkish pronunciation is that unlike English, the rules always apply!
Finally, for the most up-to-date information, I recommend both
and
Time Out Istanbul in English
Other basic recommendations include:
- Bring ONLY comfortable walking shoes. Ladies will all find they pack heels and then never take them out of the suitcase. Istanbul is an extremely hilly city, full of cobblestones, uneven sidewalks, unmarked potholes. Sometimes the streets have no sidwalks at all. And the drivers are nuts!
- Istanbul is bigger, more crowded, and more spread out than you think it will be. Plan a lot of extra time to get around if you have scheduled activities or restaurant reservations.
- Check your bill or receipt. Two of my friends who came to visit paid about 30 TL ($20) for a plate of vegetables at a cafe. I love Turks, but sometimes vendors will identify tourists and overcharge, with the assumption that you’re not paying attention. Also, ask how much something costs if you’re not sure.
